Cold Memories

A recent NH 4000 Footer Hiking and Climbing post asked what were the coldest temperatures members had camped or hiked through.  I thought of responding, but then convinced myself that my experiences were so ancient they would likely be of little interest to many in the group.  Still, it did cause me to re-live some earlier times outdoors ---- and that's especially welcoming to someone that has decided not to continue winter hiking (prudent, I think, for anyone close to my age who prefers hiking solo and experiences a bit of Raynaud's.)  This winter my hiking is coming to me vicariously through accounts and photos of others posting on a number of hiking forums --- they are creating their own stories they will be retelling later.  I appreciate hearing them now!

I've decided to write a few cold weather experiences here more for my own record or benefit, or maybe my own therapy, than for any other reason.  I don't suggest that they are more interesting or extreme than any other's.  All of us spending time outdoors in the winter have lived our own cold weather stories.  Is it just me, or do stories of cold weather have a special resonance with us all?  I seem to remember them more vividly than some others.

I remember a winter camping trip as a Boy Scout in the early 1950's.  We lived in a small northern New Hampshire town, but our troop was large, active, and energetic.  Our leader was a WWII 10th Mountain Division veteran.  He purposely dragged us out in some extreme weather.  On the trip I'm remembering we were up in Caswell's pasture just outside of town.  Our base camp was a canvas wall tent set up with snow blocks banked up the sides.  It's front flaps were open and a large fire just outside provided some heat.  Most of us, however, were there to pass various tests so we had built individual shelters in the surrounding woods. After dark it began to get cold --- and soon, even colder.  Finally it was dangerously frigid!  Most of the shelters were probably very good (Doug Mckown had taught us well) but I'm sure all of our gear was lacking.  Younger readers here should realize that during that time REI and EMS either didn't exist or were few and far between..  Outdoor gear then most likely came from an Army-Navy Surplus store or, if your family could afford it, maybe gum boots or a wool shirt from L.L.Bean.  I had a sleeping bag, though a few others were huddled in a couple of blankets.  At some point Doug came and told us all to get in the main tent.  It helped, but there were so many of us that we had to keep rotating back to front --- freezing to roasting.  And, there was a fear that the tent might catch fire from the blaze we needed to keep stoked out front.  Someone complained of their toes hurting.  Doug had him take his boots off, looked at his toes, and said,"OK, pack everything up, we're going home."  So we hiked back in to town and Doug took us all home, knocked on front doors at 2:00 am, and safely delivered a bunch of tired and nearly frozen young boys to, probably, very anxious parents. Needless to say, there were a number of lessons learned that night!

Another memory is of February 1963 with the 172nd Infantry Brigade playing war games with Canadian and Norwegian troops over a large area east of Fairbanks, west of Eagle and north of Tok Junction, Alaska.  Here I have a clear recollection of the actual temperature.  It was below zero the whole month --- but for one full week it never rose above 45° below zero!  The officers were delighted.  We were out there to test equipment and capabilities --- and their reports could all look pretty impressive after this test.  It was impressive, but a bit less thrilling, to us enlisted personnel however. One night I came back in from late perimeter guard duty to find our squad's tent unbearably hot.  In an attempt to counter the cold outside the others had cranked our gasoline burning box stove as high as it would go.  After it became clear I was not going to convince them to turn the damn thing down I packed up my stuff and moved out into the 45° below night.  What was I thinking?  In addition to the excessive heat, I was sure the stove would explode at some point!  Cautious or chicken --- I'm not sure which.  Outside I scooped out a depression in the snow, lined it with a heavy canvas cargo tarp, put in my air mattress and double down sleeping bag, took off my K boots, climbed in taking the boots with me, pulled the tarp over the top and spent a reasonably comfortable rest of the night.  The few times I peeked out I remember the northern lights were especially impressive.  And ---- the stove never exploded!

I was on Ski Patrol at Cannon Mt. for a lot of years. On days with extreme cold or wind, or both, we would sweep less traveled trails regularly during the day --- so we were out in a lot of bitter weather.  Despite every face mask and balaclava available to us I've had my nose and cheeks frost bitten more often than I'd like.  We took some pride in being able to say we had skied through wind chills off the chart --- they were probably really at the edge of the chart, but we reasoned that if we'd experienced a strong gust of wind then we would have been off the chart.) But there is beauty and awe at the extremes also.  One time, closing trails on a bitterly cold late afternoon, I was supposed to meet another patrolman at a checkpoint.  At some point I found myself standing beside the trail coming out of a trance and realizing my name was being called.  Jack was downhill at the checkpoint waiting for me, concerned, and calling my name.  I had stopped on Vistaway and become fascinated by the slow dance of alpenglow over on Franconia Ridge.  It's mesmerizing effect had transported me to some other place!  Beautiful yes ----- but dangerous too!

OK --- enough of my stories.  Better for you to go out and make your own, or if you've already lived them, write some down.  You (and maybe your grandchildren) will be glad you did.  
              

Shenandoah briefly revisited

In 1960 I took a time off from collage to hike the Appalachian Trail (south bound.)  I didn't finish.  After about 800 trail miles and a bit of hitchhiking I found myself in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. While I was there two teeth abscessed and I returned home to have the necessary root canals.  I have always missed seeing more of the Blue Ridge and the Smokies.

This past week Susan and I traveled to the area and we walked a short section of the AT at Compton Gap that I certainly hiked over 50 years ago (but nothing looked familiar.)

A few memories of those days ----- the skies were hazy all the time, flying squirrels raided my food bag most every night, swimming at a small pool below a waterfall with a large troop of Boy Scouts, the friendly couple I met at a Skyline Drive crossing who insisted I take one of their picnic sandwiches and a glass of punch because I "looked terribly hungry," and the cheap motel room in Waynesboro where I waited (uncomfortably) to see a dentist!

I've been asked why I didn't finish the full AT with section hikes.  I've certainly had years enough to have completed it, but it never interested me.  Since then I've really preferred to hike what ever appealed to me at the moment rather than put on miles to complete a trail or a list.  So it surprised me, when, a few years ago I wanted very much to finish my NH 4000 footers.  As a wise man once explained to me, "consistency of one's thinking is something we strive for, but seldom achieve."

I was glad to have made the short reminiscent hike last week --- it jogged my memory as expected.  I am also thankful for Susan's understanding and encouragement --- She made the hike especially fun.

Maybe I'll be able to report on a few more short hikes, in my favorite White Mountains, before winter fully settles in.  Stay tuned ------ if you have any interest in my wanderings.

A new list --- My Always 20 More Hikes List

After finishing two different summit lists over the past couple of years I knew I didn't want to stop hiking so I began searching for a new list.  I've finally come up with one --- it's another of my own making and I'm calling it my Always 20 More Hikes List.
I hope I can think of it not just as a list to be checked off but rather as 20 possible hikes I've identified as ones I'd like to do.  I've tried a number of ways to not call it a list, but none work well for me ----- the not a list list just doesn't have a good ring to it.  So I'll give in and call it what it really is --- another list of peaks (more or less) to climb.  My plan is to keep the list updated so there are always at least 20 new choices that I can quickly refer to when I get the urge to be outside.  If I'm eating lunch and decide I'd like some exercise that afternoon I'll pick a quick walk in the woods.  If the long range forecast predicts a beautiful day that week I'll pick, and begin planning for, a longer hike.
Right now my list has twenty two ideas that include hikes to ponds, waterfalls, old growth forests, open ledgy view points, summits I may have already visited but would like to do by a different trail and a few short bushwacks to special places.  Most are less than 4000 footers but more of the higher elevations will likely find their way on to the list as I go along --- I know I'll have the urge to be back above treeline sometime soon!
Today was the first day of actually working from my new list --- and I'm impressed.  I think it will work!  While eating breakfast today I realized that this week's weather forecast and my schedule dictated that this would likely be the last day available to me this fall for a good foliage viewing hike. Middle Sugarloaf in Twin Mt. was on my list --- it's less than a half hour's drive away and only a 2.8 mile hike.  It fit, and it proved to be a lot of fun.  A few photos of the hike:

The Sugarloaf Trail begins at the bridge over Zealand River about a mile in from Rt. 302.

Early on it passes by a number of interesting erratics (large boulders.)

Most of the bright red foliage has passed, but that leaf drop allows more sun in to the woods and now the yellows light up brilliantly.

At a col the trail splits to two short hikes to either peak.

Nearing the top

  

there is one last steep pitch --- but easily navigated.

At the top a 270° view opens up.

More color

A telephoto view of the Mountain View Grand Hotel

and another of Washington and the Cog RR.

Then back down

past the unusual boulders

and more color

 back to Zealand River and trail's end.

An enjoyable afternoon!

71>71 Franconia Ridge Finish September 19th, 2014

Lafayette and I have stories ---there is a bond between us.  So I saved it for last.  With this hike, the classic Franconia Ridge Walk (with a tag at the end,) I bagged the last five peaks on my 71>71 list.

Audrey, one of my two daughters, made the hike with me and bagged two summits.  She says I have lower standards than she does ---and she's right.  My 100 foot rule allowed me to claim Haystack, Lincoln, North Lincoln, Lafayette and North Lafayette.  Her 200 foot criteria (the 48 list) allowed her  just Lincoln and Lafayette.  Be careful what limits you set for yourself!

I'll let these two photos begin my story:

An earlier time on Lafayette

and again September 2014.

I hope I'm not overworking this comparison/reminiscent theme (I used it in my last post too) but I'm having fun with it.  Most of my life has been spent within view of Lafayette and the Franconia Range --- It does have some hold on me.  As a boy, the northwestern Whites were my playground.  Many Fridays after school or early Saturday mornings, a few friends (especially Gene, Bill, Howard, Taylor, Dick) and I would load into the back of my Father's pick-up and be driven to a trailhead.  He would drop us off with with a few words of encouragement and caution, but always ending with, "and behave yourselves!"  Late Sunday afternoon we'd be picked up at a designated hour.  It worked --- there was never a disaster --- and what we learned in that unsupervised time has proven to be an asset to all of us.

But now, a few photos of Audrey's and my recent trip up on the ridge:

One of Falling Waters Trail's namesake

and a steep section.

Up higher the sun began to peak over the ridge.

Soon the trail breaks out on to Mt. Haystack

and the ridge walk ahead beckons.   

After a few bumps in the rock,

some very precarious rock,

we bag Liberty,

then Lafayette ----- along with everybody else! 

At that point I headed over to North Lafayette with remnants of the morning's rime ice,

it's balancing rock

and gliders being dropped off

to play along the ridge line.

Heading back to Lafayette there are great views East,

West,

  

and South to some leaving Lafayette.

     

Back at the summit I posed for my obligatory finish photo.

Then we headed down with a stop for Audrey to reenact a time when she on a rock, on the side of Lafayette, whistling.  It's a long story --- probably better left for another time (or you can ask her.)

We stopped for cookies freshly baked by the competent staff at Greenleaf Hut,

then for a look at where we'd been.

Finally, on the drive home, I was able to catch a hint of alpenglow on "my" Ridge.

Some have asked, "so what now after 71>71?"  The answer is ---I'm not sure yet.  What I can say, unequivocally, is that even if it's not especially ambitious it will not involve sitting around watching soap operas!

71>71 Bond, West Bond, Guyot & Zealand Sept.12th, 2014

A long day.  Four additional summits.  A step back from civilization.  And, tired legs!
Yesterday's hike was a long one for me --- a rocky, up and down 17.6 miles.  At my typical pace I figured 14 hours.  There are only 13.5 hours of daylight in mid September so I began at 5:00 am using my headlamp.  I stepped back in to my truck at 6:10 pm.
Was it worth it?  Of course it was!  The Bonds hold some special attraction for most all White Mountain hikers.  It's hard to pin down just what that attraction is, but their remoteness certainly has much to do with it.  To quote from The 4000-Footers of the White Mountains, "The Bonds are about as far away from civilization as one can get in the Whites."
There are three Bond summits showing up on most lists: Bond, West Bond and Bondcliff.  I had checked off Bondcliff two years ago when I hiked in to it from the south.  Now I needed the remaining two, as well as Mt. Guyot and Mt. Zealand, which are in the same area.
This hike came in (and returned) from the north via Zealand, Twinway and Bondcliff Trails.  The day started off cloudy (actually black because the sun wasn't even trying to peak through the clouds at 5:00 am) but the forecast was for it to improve somewhat during the day.  Just as a bit of daylight did begin to show through I started climbing up in to clouds --- very wet clouds!

5:00 am (enhanced)

First light (actual)

Clouds across Zealand Pond --- soon I'll be wallowing my way up through them

At Zealand Pond I turned west and after passing the AMC hut and making a rocky climb I reached Zeacliff ledges ----- with their notable views.  Oh, but wait, I was still in the clouds so there was no view!

The morning view from Zeacliff   --- but remember this spot, I'll be back later

From Zeacliff I continued along the Twinway Trail with a short jaunt out to the summit of Mt. Zealand and then hit both summits of Mt. Guyot by turning south on Bondcliff trail.

Much of Twinway is a flat ridge walk 

Other sections are not flat

Summit in the Woods

A not so stealthy trailside campsite

At Guyot the clouds began to lift.  For a few hours during mid-day the skies became mostly clear, only to cloud over again later.

Guyot's East summit

And it's west summit

A colorless "rainbow"as the clouds were lifting

"My" two Bonds were next.  The last time I was here the half mile out to West Bond was more of a bushwack than a trail, I spent the night at Zeacliff Pond Shelter and the summit of Bondcliff wasn't yet recognized on the 48 list!  Those who've spent some time in these mountains can figure how long ago that was.  I do remember having been on Bond and West Bond ----- but just barely.  Lucky for me though, my journal even records the date.  Today's memories will last awhile I'm sure.  The first time here, as a boy, I probably flew through and then checked them off the list.  Today's dark start, strenuous footing, lifting clouds and maybe a bit more contemplative mood certainly heightened the occasion.

West Bond ahead

Looking at Bondcliff from West Bond ( the photo I use in the title to this blog is from near the summit of Bondcliff looking along the ridge toward Mt. Bond.)

Bond from West Bond

The "back side" of South Twin from West Bond

Then Bondcliff from Mt. Bond

And West Bond from Bond with  Franconia Range in the distance

And then it was time to turn around and head out the same way I came in -------------

Back over Guyot with clouds moving in again

Then a few hints of the season's change

Finally back at the view from Zeacliff Ledges

 And, the real reason I wanted the view to open up -------  contrast the two photos below.
Hair may gray, trees may grow, rock may erode, but boys still want to play in the hills!

2014

1957

Oh, and one last reason why this trip was special to me.  I am now only one remaining hike away from completing my 71>71 list.  Stay tuned ------ a report coming soon to a blog near you.